Japan Trip: Tokyo Dream Park, and Coming Home

People waiting to be let into the mall to see that poop-shaped whatever store I mentioned earlier, while others mill in and around the nearby Symbol Promenade Park. That long golden teardrop you see in the last slide is the “Flame of Freedom,” a gift from the French government. x “Waiting Room” x “Tokyo Dream Park.” More views of what remains of the K-Museum building and the very last of the roll of my last roll in Tokyo. x This whole area is reclaimed land like Hiroshima and meant to be a showcase of Tokyo’s dreams of the nineties, with … Continue reading “Japan Trip: Tokyo Dream Park, and Coming Home”

Japan Trip: The Expo That Never Happened

One of the last things we did in Tokyo was to try and tie together our Expo experience by looking for this remnant of one that never happened. The K-Museum, designed by Makoto Sei Watanabe and completed in 1996 on the Odaiba waterfront, was conceived as part of World City Expo ’96 which aimed to showcase Tokyo’s hidden infrastructure through futuristic architecture and educational exhibits. But that mega-event was abruptly canceled in 1995 by the newly elected Governor Yukio Aoshima, who opposed its massive costs, leaving projects like the K-Museum without their intended context. This upset a lot of countries … Continue reading “Japan Trip: The Expo That Never Happened”

Japan Trip: The Tokyo Tower Inside Don Quixote

Extremely online people sometimes joke that zoomers are just young boomers, and sometimes that’s unfair, though it does name a certain drift to social and political conservativism among some in that demographic. But even if that’s wildly generalized, every meme carries a kernel of truth, and I can’t unsee this horseshoe as more from this age bracket become my colleagues. There are chaotic tendencies at work that can’t simply be explained by lack of experience: confused communication, sloppy reasoning, and the kind of cavalier attitude to technology that I’ve only ever seen among the olds. It’s baffling. Do they seriously … Continue reading “Japan Trip: The Tokyo Tower Inside Don Quixote”

Japan Trip: Gundam, Malls, and the Ghost of Empire

After a couple of days in Tokyo, I started to realize that a lot of time can be wasted transferring between stations on subway trips across more than one line, and I didn’t want to spend all day underground in the name of “efficiency.” So, we started treating transfer stations as destinations in themselves, adding extra sites to our itineraries. These gardens were one such bonus visit. x I’m a sucker for a good frame within a frame. x It’s weird how brains work. When I was in Japan eleven years ago, Christine had googled a shinkansen themed kaitenzushi place … Continue reading “Japan Trip: Gundam, Malls, and the Ghost of Empire”

Japan Trip: St. Mary’s Cathedral, Tokyo

This is St. Mary’s Cathedral, built in 1964 to commemorate 100 years of Christianity in Japan. This was also two decades after the first cathedral had been destroyed in WWII. The building was designed by Kenzo Tange in the shape of a cross, with eight hyperbolic parabolas opening upwards to form a cross of light, which continues vertically along the length of the four facades. The design would later inspire San Franscisco’s own St Mary’s. I found the building breathtaking, with the brut concrete interior even more effective than the outside. But apparently, the clerical authorities were lukewarm about it, … Continue reading “Japan Trip: St. Mary’s Cathedral, Tokyo”

Japan Trip: Cringestagram in Shinjuku and Shibuya

Don’t believe Google or Instagram because the @ginzavampire cafe is, in fact, open on Mondays, and, let me tell you: 10/10, would do again. They are so committed to the bit from the moment you walk in to the moment you walk out—our server gave us the deepest bow in the whole of Japan as the elevator doors shut—that you can’t help but be swept up in the pageantry. And the food is actually good! It’s not just a bit of food coloring and some skull stencils. Another equally goofy and dead serious experience in Japan ✔️ x Bringing back … Continue reading “Japan Trip: Cringestagram in Shinjuku and Shibuya”

Japan Trip: The New Vacation Slide Deck

Instagram is the new vacation slide deck. We actually screen mirrored Christine’s phone on a friend’s TV the other day and talked through our posts just like a bunch of boomers. Our excuse was that they’re planning a trip to Japan soon. This deck features Japanese Denny’s, @pigment_tokyo, and more from inside the Yumenoshima Tropical Greenhouse Dome. x We watched Fellini’s 8½ last night, technically a re-watch for me, but, apparently, I could only remember the very last sequence after all these years. It’s a film about filmmaking that I watched in film school, so I’ll forgive the formalism that … Continue reading “Japan Trip: The New Vacation Slide Deck”

Japan Trip: Fujifilm on Fujifilm

More from Electric Town: This bus, so ideogrammatic in my mind of Beirut, as seen in its natural habitat; Lebanon often gets these second-hand. That train—I actually waited several minutes for it to come back around so I could catch it in that reflection like a real photographer or something. This street featuring the Beastie Boys in their hi-viz jackets with the built-in air condition. x Fujifilm on Fujifilm. Back when I first started daydreaming about this trip to Japan, I entertained fantasies about going camera hunting here, but to be honest, the bargains aren’t so ubiquitous to make that … Continue reading “Japan Trip: Fujifilm on Fujifilm”

Japan Trip: Book Town and Electric Town

Jinbocho is known as Tokyo’s famed “book town,” a historic district lined with hundreds of bookstores, ranging from tiny secondhand shops stacked floor to ceiling with rare volumes to major multi-story retailers offering new releases, academic texts, and foreign-language titles. But we were there for one bookstore in particular: Anegawa Nyankodō, or the Cat Bookstore. I’d thought that having a destination like that was a good way to explore a unique neighborhood, but we actually found two books we wanted! And the process of purchasing them was probably one of my favorite experiences on the trip. The elderly gentleman was … Continue reading “Japan Trip: Book Town and Electric Town”

Japan Trip: The Dragon of Enoshima

I hadn’t intended on syncing up the cadence of my Japan postings with my life back here in Seattle when I first started, but when I saw that it was possible, I really wanted to talk about Enoshima today for reasons that will soon become clearer. Christine had asked for a day trip out of Tokyo, and Suzi suggested Kamakura as a popular destination, so we added that to our list. As the time got closer to plan our itinerary in more detail, I noticed an island a little bit outside of town that seemed dedicated to all things dragonic; … Continue reading “Japan Trip: The Dragon of Enoshima”